Tuesday, May 31, 2011
May 2011 - Paradise Found
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
February 2011 - Snow, Ice, and Romance
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
December 2010 - First Winter
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
At Home in Lincoln
We’ve settled into Lincoln happily – so much that it will be hard to leave, when the time comes. Every morning now we walk Jonah down the driveway to wait for the school bus. The grass is still green, and looks like powdered mint in the morning frost. The trees are blazing red, orange, and yellow, scuttling their leaves across Sweet Road on the way to drop off Zora. Both kids have great teachers and are happy in school. I drive home to work as the sun starts filling the valley.
The weather changed suddenly. In early September we had to run the fans, and just two weeks later we were turning on the heater. The first week of Jonah’s new life as a kindergardener, he came home and jumped in the lake. Now the lake is too cold for swimming, but it’s still warm enough to fish from the canoe. The only kind of fish out there that seems to want Jonah’s worms are large toothy pickerill – the last one was 16”. They’re probably full of mercury, but what they hey, we fry them up in flour with curry powder and just try not to take Jonah fishing too often.
Earlier this summer, Jack and Pat sailed up to Canada in Alisande and we met them at Eastport, the easternmost town in the U.S. It was a beautiful old town, preserved through neglect and now full of artists. The mackerel were running in the harbor and kids just a little older than Jonah were pulling out lines with five or more fish hooked on at a time. Jonah befriended a boy who was more than happy to share his catch, so I cleaned the fish and we cooked and ate them on board. In town, I found a store that sold handmade things. I bought a box of “Needhams” candy and two dolls (one for Zora and one for her cousin Easnadh) that had been rescued from goodwill and outfitted with custom-knitted dresses. The cost of the dolls could never have covered the work that went into the knitting, so I imagine the artist as a saintly rescuer of abandoned lovies, someone who still gets misty-eyed when she hears “Puff the Magic Dragon.”
Time is valued differently here. Goods all cost the same – or more – as they did in the Bay Area, but anything that requires human time is much less. The best haircutter in town (who is actually quite good) charges $16 and is amazed if you pay her $20. Zora’s Montessori, also the most expensive in town and the sort of nurturing and politically correct place that would cost at least $1500 per month in the Bay, only charges $450. For now we are quite lucky to have been able to hang on to employment from outside the state, but I am sure that if we had to find jobs in Maine we would struggle. Many people work multiple jobs. It’s not uncommon to see a sign that reads something like: “Small Engine Repair and Fresh Baked Pies.”
People who find out we’re from California like to tease me that I’ll never make it through the winter. I’ve learned that the best retort is to tease them back that I know how they do it – it’s that Allen Coffee Brandy. Every drugstore and grocery store in Maine seems to have about a fifth of the liquor aisle dedicated to variously sized bottles of Allen Coffee Brandy (also known as “Fat Ass in a Glass”). I figure since we’re already living in a trailer, I might as well start working on a double-wide. But I haven’t bought any Allen’s yet. I can’t sleep at night if I drink caffeine after noon, so until I’m cold enough to start drinking at 10am, it’s no use to me. Instead, we are working on fermenting three gallons of apple cider that we squeezed with a borrowed cider press. The apples came from a local orchard that agreed to discount the “drops” we harvested from the ground. The kids enjoyed using the press and collecting fresh cider from its spout, but after grinding and pressing 8 bushels I felt like I never wanted to see another apple. Zach and Jonah had the slightly less arduous task of slicing apples for the dehydrator, with which they made yummy apple chips. And Zach’s mother made wonderful applesauce, enough to last until the next apple harvest.
We ate out of the garden all summer. It was neat to be here when everything came out of the ground and had to be processed. Zach’s mother made pickled “dilly” beans, pickled beets, relish, spiced grape jam from the concord grapes near the driveway, and we had several apple cakes and crisps from the crabby little apples in the front. On a trip to Machias we obtained a 10-pound box of blueberries for the freezer. Now we are just waiting for our cider to ferment and our 5 new Australorp pullets to start laying eggs. They are lovely black chickens, green and blue iridescent in the sun. I love to sit on the lawn with my coffee in the morning listening to them cluck.
Zach built the chicken house and run while he was waiting to hear about his job with Fat Spaniel. It was a good outlet for the anxiety, something concrete and productive to focus on. He had been working with Fat Spaniel for seven years, was one of the first employees, and we were heavily invested there – but as often happens with start-ups, it was bought by another company and our stocks never came to anything. It would have been devastating news to receive in the Bay, but here, in this timeless place, it’s just a failed harvest. The bad news was followed up by a great offer from another company down in Massachusetts. Zach is now the new Director of Measurement and Monitoring for American Capital Energy, a high-end company that carries out about 20% of the country’s major solar installations. They are willing to let him work in the office just 2 days a week for now (and 3 from home), which will let us keep the kids in school and gives us time to look for a place of our own in southern Maine.
I have just finished drafting two evaluation reports for the organization I contracted with in April. It was a great experience and they were happy enough with my work to ask me to evaluate the same two projects next year, this time on a prospective basis. I may also have a chance to help them re-design the database they use to gather data about their various initiatives. Exciting, fun, and challenging work with great people, and it will continue to give me the flexibility to work from some so I can be here when Jonah bursts into the house and wants to tell us about his day.
Jonah turned five this month. I planned a “Rock Party” for him and gave him an invitation to offer to a friend he’d met on the bus. She refused the invitation, so I thought the party idea was dead in the water and started planning a trip to Western Maine to tour a mine (something Jonah had been asking to do all year). The next week Jonah took out the invitation and offered it to someone in his class – everyone crowded around, saying they wanted to come too. At that point we were committed to invite the whole class. Zach and his family were apprehensive (the last party they threw, in Taos, ended up in tears) but it went off beautifully, particularly the mine shaft in the basement that led to a bucket of dirt filled with treasures. We had a good mix of cousins and classmates (not too many), and a tasty lemon cake with candy “rocks.” Jonah had a blast and parents wrote me afterwards to let me know what a nice time they’d had. Whew – one down. We were still committed to the mine tour I had reserved, so we did that last weekend. Jack and Pat came along and helped entertain Zora while Zach, Jonah and I went into the mines. Everyone got to dig in the tailings, where we found feldspar, mica, quartz, and even some rough-grade aquamarine and garnet. We had a beautiful drive home along route 2, which is sort of a Northern Route 66, running West to the Pacific coast and East right past Sweet Road where we currently abide.
After much transition we have found a new path forward. It’s nice to finally have some time to write. I am looking out the bedroom of our trailer at a broad green lawn, trees with gold and russet leaves, and a garden that is turning back into the earth. Standing in the corner of our room are four birch branches, the huppah poles from our wedding. They came off this property in ‘02, travelled all the way to Boonville, sat in the dark 5 years at our storage unit in Berkeley and now are just a few meters from where they grew.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Orienting North East
I’ve spent the past two weeks spinning a bit. Who are we now? What are our new priorities, and how do we fit them in to a pattern of living? At least that pattern – a daily and weekly routine - is now starting to take shape. Zach used to always leave before dawn; now he helps the kids get ready in the morning and even sometimes has a chance to read to or play with them before they head to school, while I am making their lunch and cleaning up from breakfast. Right now I am doing both the pick-up and drop-off since my schedule is more flexible. The kids get out at 4, and Zach has to work till 5, so I can spend the extra hour taking the kids to the lake or doing errands in town. On Thursdays I have the whole day with the kids. Jack is retired, so yesterday (our most recent Thursday) he took us on a hike up to the top of a hill that was covered in wild low-bush blueberries. The berries are small but intensely flavored, and when you tickle the leaves they fall right into your hand. The road to the blueberry stand is lined with raspberries and blackberries. We gathered as many as we could of all three, hoping for pie, but only amassed enough for generous toppings on ice cream.
We asked Jonah the other day whether he liked living on a boat or living in a house. He thought for a moment, then like a good politician framed his answer in terms of the question he thought we should have asked. “I like this place,” he told us. Then, “It’s different here.” He couldn’t specify what was different, exactly. Probably more things than he could list. I wondered if he is aware of the cultural differences; the relaxed, straightforward, old-fashioned sensibility of the townsfolk here. But both kids seem to be happy and responding well. Upon meeting his Montessori teacher for the first time, Jonah spontaneously and enthusiastically hugged her. This wasn’t even after they had spent time together – it was an immediate connection, and such an unusual response for him that I was completely surprised.
Zora has grown up quite a bit over the last 1 ½ months. She’s now running at full speed, talking up a storm, and asking questions that start with “why?” A recent exchange:
“Time to get dressed, Zora.”
“No!” She wails and bolts, then pauses, pointing at a picture of a monkey on the floor. “Monkey no clothes.” She looks up earnestly, trying to make sure I understand her point. “Why monkey no clothes?”
In Bangor, after shopping for a sofa, we ate at a restaurant that has a robotic talking moose over the bar. The kids loved it, but Zora was stumped. “Why moose talking?” she asked while the moose was telling us about the “avalanche of flavor” we were about to experience. Then, when the moose went into his 10-minute shut-down mode, she tugged on me again. “Why moose no talking?”
Zora seems to love the Montessori, where she has lots of new “babies” to play with (both plastic and real). Every time I pick her up she looks tired, happy, and her shoes are drenched from water play. For both kids, four full days a week, this costs less than half what we paid in the Bay. Jonah will get to enjoy the worm-digging, teepee-building and butterfly-hatching for one more month before he starts kindergarden. I went to enroll him at the town superintendent’s office yesterday, which is located on the ground floor of the Masonic Temple. I thought I was late signing him up (shopping around for kindergardens in Berkeley starts in January, and the lottery is in the spring), but they told me I was too early. I need to go directly to the school, just two weeks before school starts, and they’ll take care of it then. The receptionist at the office (Lisa) who explained this to me is the daughter-in-law of the hospital’s ultrasound technician, Karen. Karen is also the person who cleans the local hospital and Jack and Pat’s house – and who is scheduled to clean our trailer’s carpet *sometime* so we can start moving in. Lisa lives across the street from her mother-in-law, so I asked her to ask Karen when she plans to clean the carpet. It would be nice to know when she is coming, so we can either set aside the weekend to move in or take off and go sailing. I realize now this was pushy of me to ask, and in combination with the school sign-up, it became clear that I need to slow down to the pace of Maine. Karen will come when she can, and we should just plan to go sailing.
Arrival in Maine
We left Boston, last northern edifice of civilization and of jobs, heading towards our future home in a state that has been called both “Vacationland” and “a god-forsaken, fly-infested country” (Annie Proulx). The kids were asleep but we couldn’t help but let out a cheer as we crossed the border and saw the welcome sign, which reads: “Maine - The Way Life Should Be.” I felt an ache in my chest and suppressed an urge to cry, it had taken us so much to get here. Years of dreaming and planning and postponing, coming to visit and hating to leave, working on the boat so that it would sell, holding on with our teeth through the process of selling, then packing, cutting ties, driving so far. We had made it all this way, one step and one mile at a time. We wondered if this place would be kind to us. And we wondered if the luck that had brought us to this point was self-made, pure luck, or fate. You never can look far enough down the road to know for sure whether something can be called good or bad, but it does feel good, if even for a moment, to believe you can control your destiny by choosing your place on the map and getting there.
Arriving in the countryside of Northern Maine in summer is like being heralded with a blast of angel trumpets. Golden sun and swaying leafy green trees. Warm country roads lined with cicadas and singing birds. As we rolled up to the home of Zach’s parents, I opened the double doors in their wooden fence and we drove into the front yard. Jack and Pat walked out to meet us, quietly grinning, followed by Rachel, Aaron, Gryphon, and Nikita (the dog). We stood with the Nobels’ welcome party in the yard for a long time, hugging and talking. Then we went inside and gave everyone a taste of California - Madera figs and Humboldt Fog cheese – we had transported from Ithaca.
Whereas our two weeks Ithaca passed by in a flash, our first week in Maine was so long that by the end we felt like we had been here for at least a month. Sorting through the pile of bills forwarded from Berkeley, trying to figure out how to make the trailer liveable, trying to memorize the names of our new townsfolk, starting the kids in Montessori our 3rd day after arrival. But we also began enjoying ourselves right away, running around in the huge green yard, eating out of the garden, swimming in the lake, pushing the kids in a swing in the barn, and enjoying Meme’s endless supply and variety of cookies. In the evenings, we share meals with Zach’s parents, and with Laura and Rachel’s families each weekend. The kids are off and running with their rediscovered cousins and the family is restructuring itself into one large, layered unit. This big house has expands to fit however many children come to play or sleep under its eaves. The barn has expanded to fit the uhaul truck full of boxes Zach ferried up from Portland on Friday. And Jack and Pat have made room for us in their lives, inviting us to stay as long as we need. Like their house, generous and expansive.
Up the road is a farm and horse ranch. I inquired there about lessons and began my first yesterday. It had been at least 17 years but the muscle memory was still there, if a little rusty. Jonah got a chance to do a short ride; if he expresses interest, I may give him a few more, though it will be a long time before he’ll be able to control the horse on his own. After work, Zach and Jonah went out in the canoe and returned with a 13” fish for dinner. This morning, with the kids in school, Zach and I went running. All in all, it’s every bit the healthier and more active country life we had imagined. When we breathe in, there’s no trace of smog. The water is plentiful and tastes wonderful. There’s no commute to work (for now). And with the grandparents around nightly and even more family on weekends, Rachel can slip away for a swim, I can slip out into the yard to fiddle under the trees, or Aaron can take some time for himself on the computer. Someone is always around to keep an eye on the kids.
Ithaca
My sister Katrina was born on the 4th of July. I remember being 4 years old, watching our neighbors’ fireworks from the safety of my grandma’s lap, and thinking it perfectly natural that the whole country was celebrating her arrival. This year, Katrina arrived on the 6th, so we saved most of the stockpile of explosives we had purchased from “Uncle Zack’s Fireworks” in West Virginia to blow up in her presence. First we lit glow worms, which spouted black snakes of ash. We escalated to snapping poppers on the ground, waved around sparklers, then went up to the driveway to light a succession of rockets and fountains. We had never bought fireworks before, so when the thing that was described as a spinning fountain took off into the air screaming and exploded, shooting arrows of sparks, we were all a little surprised. Finally we worked up our courage to set off a big ball over the pond. It was shockingly large and we all held our breath as its sparks cleared the trees. So there you go Katrina. A great big birthday candle.
The rest of the TNT crackers were used to shoot homemade tin can rockets up into the air. After several experiments the boys (my father, Zach, and Jonah, who all behaved about the same age with regards to this activity) got the can 20 feet above the top of the three-story house.
We stayed on the basement floor, which gave the kids a place to make messy projects and to nap. During the day Zach and I headed up to the top floor to work while my parents and Katrina generously entertained the kids. They walked in the forest, swam in the pond, searched for bullfrogs, and read books. Throughout the day, various animals made their appearances – songbirds, woodpeckers, chipmunks, deer, rabbits, and Mabel the turkey. At 5, when Zach and I were done working, we all went swimming in the pond together. Then my parents would pass out margaritas and serve something wonderful from the barbeque. Uncle Joel and Aunt Diane came to stay for a little while and we took the opportunity to have a little hootenanny, with Joel on the banjo and Jeff on dobro. When night came fireflies filled the ground and the sky, sometimes streaking like shooting starts. The stars were so clear, and the fireflies so many, it was sometimes hard to tell which was which.
On our last weekend we went wine-tasting. We hit our favorite spot and also some new ones, including a distillery that made the most aromatic gin and where we bought a small bottle of sour cherry liqueur. Since the kids couldn’t taste the wine they went “cracker tasting.” Jonah had a little scorecard where he described and rated the crackers at each winery. Lamoreaux, where we bought the most wine, scored lowest on crackers. But the place where they passed out popsicles was off the charts.
Two weeks in Ithaca flew by. On our last morning we met the three sweet sons of my sister’s boyfriend Pablo. They were staying the night, so we had to clear out of the basement, and in any case it was time for us to be moving on. We packed everything up quickly like expert gypsies, leaving only our footsteps, and sailed off in the red land yacht for Boston. Phyllis and Ken were doing real sailing in Maine, but they had left us the key to their gracious old brownstone. After a nice evening on the porch talking with Carmen and her boyfriend Greg, we joined the kids for sleep on the haunted 3rd floor.